NAPLES, N.Y -- Naples is a quiet agricultural village at the south end of

Canandaiguad Lake in western New York. There is only one high school and

no McDonald's. The largest industry is the Widmer Winery, medium-sized

as wineries go. But the grapes are everywhere, especially the concords,

clinging to the bluffs and valleys, so it is no wonder that grape pie is

a specialty.

Grape pies are rare, but there are at least half a dozen women

baking them commercially in the homes in Naples. For decades, Irene

Bouchard's pies were the most popular with townies and local restaurants

and as far away as Rochester (60 miles). She retired three years ago.

But at her peak, in the early 1980s, she and her daughters and husband

could bake 200 or more pies in their two regular kitchen ovens.

Her husband, Don, helped out by making deliveries and popping the

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pulp out of the slip-skinned concords. At his peak he popped the skins

off more than 2 tons of grapes in a year, one grape at a time. Today

there is a grape pie cook-off sponsored by a restaurant in Naples with

the winner taking home a check for $100 and the Irene Bouchard Trophy.

IRENE BOUCHARD'S TROPHY GRAPE PIE

(Makes one 9-inch pie)

2 pounds of concord grapes

3/4 cups sugar or to taste

1 tablespoon quick-cooking tapioca

Pastry for 2-crust 9-inch pie

Wash and stem grapes. Squeeze grapes between thumb and forefingers,

popping pulp and skins into separate bowls. Cook pulp in a saucepan

until soft, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes. Strain out seeds.

Combine skins, strained pulp, sugar and tapioca. Let stand at least 10

minutes. Pour into pastry-lined 9-inch pie plate. Cover with top crust,

trim, seal and flute edges. Prick top to allow steam to escape. Bake at

400 degrees for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and

continue baking for 20 to 25 minutes until crust is lightly browned and

juice bubbles up in center. Serve warm with ice cream or cheese.

by Craig Goldwyn, International Wine Review magazine

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